Best Brad Point Drill Bit Set

The one-hole moment that ruins a clean woodworking layout

You’re drilling shelf pins, hinge screws, or dowel holes and everything looks lined up… until the bit wanders at the start and your hole lands a hair off.

That tiny miss shows up later as a rocking shelf, a hinge that binds, or a dowel joint that won’t pull tight.

If you’re shopping for the best brad point drill bit set, you’re in the right place—because brad points are built to start on-center in wood, cut a clean rim, and reduce walking compared to general-purpose twist bits.

What this best brad point drill bit set roundup covers

This page breaks down 5 solid sets that cover common home-shop needs, from cabinet work and furniture builds to simple “drill clean holes in wood” tasks.

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, DrillAlign may earn from qualifying purchases. This doesn’t change what we recommend.

This roundup focuses on sets that make sense in a real shop, so you get better results without overbuying:

• Cleaner starts for accurate layout work (shelf pins, hardware, dowels)
• Better hole quality in hardwood, plywood, and softwood
• Practical sizes you’ll actually use, with storage that doesn’t fall apart

If you want the basics first, start at Drill Bits hub

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Best Brad Point Drill Bit Set (2026): Top 5 Picks

1) Fisch Wave Cutter Brad Point Set (7-Piece, 1/8"–1/2") — Best overall for clean, accurate woodworking holes

Why it’s a top pick: In wood, the difference between “good enough” and “clean and accurate” often happens in the first 1/8" (3 mm) of the hole.

A sharp brad point with clean rim cutters starts where you marked and leaves a nicer edge, especially in plywood and hardwood.

Decision bullets

• Where it shines: cabinetry, furniture parts, shelf pin drilling, and jig building where placement matters.
• Hole quality: cleaner entry and less rim tear-out than a standard twist bit in wood.
• Technique requirement: start slow, keep the drill square, then feed steadily once the spurs score.
• Workholding: clamp your work and use a backer board for through-holes you care about.
• Best for: Woodworking-first drilling where accuracy and clean edges matter.

Shop tip: If you’re still deciding between brad point vs twist bits, read this before you buy another “general purpose” set: brad point vs twist bits

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2) DEWALT DW1720 Brad Point Drill Bit Set (20-Piece) — Best for a full-size assortment (general DIY + shop coverage)

If you do a mix of home projects and shop builds, an assortment set is convenient because you stop “making do” with the wrong size.

That matters with brad point bits, because the right diameter helps you avoid sloppy pilots, split wood, and hardware that won’t seat correctly.

Why it’s a top pick: It’s a straightforward way to get brad point performance across many sizes in one box, so you get solid coverage for pilots, clearance holes, and common woodworking layouts.

Decision bullets

• Where it shines: general DIY, woodworking installs, shop jigs, and “I need the right size now” moments.
• How to get best results: start slow, keep the drill square, and let the spurs score before you feed.
• Material fit: best in wood (hardwood/softwood/plywood). For plastics, go slower and clear chips often.
• Workholding: clamp the work; brad points start clean, but they still follow the angle you drill at.
• Best for: A do-it-all brad point assortment for wood drilling.

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3) IRWIN Tools 1882793 Brad Point Drill Bit Set (8-Piece) — Best budget-first brad point set (still a real upgrade over twist bits)

If you drill wood occasionally and you mainly want to stop bits from skating, a basic brad point set can be the right move.

It won’t replace good technique, but it makes accurate starts easier than a typical twist-bit assortment.

Why it’s a top pick: It’s a practical entry point into brad point bits without buying a massive kit or specialty sizes you won’t use.

Decision bullets

• Where it shines: home repairs, brackets, simple shelves, and light woodworking.
• How to get cleaner holes: use a backer board and avoid punching through at full speed.
• When to upgrade: if you’re doing fine cabinetry/furniture and you care about tear-out and rim quality.
• Best for: Occasional shop use where you still want brad point starts.

Quick win: If your holes still look rough, check the bit type and match it to the job: drill bit types explained

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4) Porter-Cable PC1014 Brad Point Drill Bit Set (14-Piece) — Best mid-size coverage for shop tasks (jigs, hardware, cabinet parts)

This is the kind of set that lives in a shop drawer: not too huge, not too limited.

If you’re drilling hardware holes, jig holes, and general woodworking pilots, the mid-size coverage is what keeps you moving.

Why it’s a top pick: A “right-sized” brad point set often gets used more than a giant kit, because you can find the bit fast and the sizes match typical woodworking tasks.

Decision bullets

• Where it shines: cabinet parts, shop fixtures, jigs, and hardware installs.
• Hole quality: brad point rim scoring helps reduce splintering on entry in wood.
• Technique note: for clean exits, drill into a backer board or stop just short and finish from the back.
• Best for: A practical wood drill bit set for regular shop use.

Learn the basics: If you’re trying to choose the right bit for each job (not just brad points), start here: drill bit types explained

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5) Fisch Brad Point Drill Bit Set (5-Piece, 3/16"–3/8") — Best compact “core sizes” set (the bits you reach for most)

Big kits are convenient, but most shops live on a few sizes.

A compact “core sizes” set is what you grab for pilots, shelf work, and jig holes—especially when you want the brad point to land exactly on your mark.

Why it’s a top pick: You get the brad point benefits (clean starts, cleaner rims) in the sizes that show up constantly in woodworking and DIY.

Decision bullets

• Where it shines: pilots for wood screws, jig holes, shelf work, and general shop drilling.
• How to keep holes clean: clamp a backer board and ease up at breakthrough.
• Best for: Compact, high-use brad point drilling in wood.

For a deeper explanation of why these start cleaner than twist bits: brad point vs twist bits

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How we choose

For a brad point buying guide that actually helps in a home shop, we focus on what changes results in wood:

• Start accuracy (does the point seat and resist walking?)
• Rim cut quality (cleaner edges = less sanding and less chip-out)
• Size selection (useful diameters vs filler sizes)
• Real-world versatility (hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF)
• Storage and organization (if the case is a mess, the set won’t get used)

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Don’t buy the wrong brad point set

Don’t buy this if…

• You mainly drill metal. Brad point bits are designed for wood, so use metal-cutting bits for metal.
• You expect any set to prevent tear-out on the exit side without a backer board. Through-holes still need support.
• You want one kit to do everything (wood, masonry, tile). Build a small set of purpose-built bits instead.

Buy this if…

• You want cleaner, more accurate holes in wood for cabinetry, furniture, and DIY installs.
• You’re tired of bit walking and off-center starts, especially on plywood and hardwood.
• You want a wood drill bit set that makes layout work (shelf pins, hardware, dowels) more predictable.

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Buyer’s guide: how to choose a drill guide that actually drills straight

What brad point bits do better than twist bits

In wood, brad point bits are built for control at the start of the hole:

• Center point helps the bit seat on your mark instead of skating
• Outer spurs score the rim for a cleaner edge
• Cleaner entry means less fuzzing and less chip-out on plywood veneers

If you want the full breakdown (and when twist bits are still the right call): brad point vs twist bits

Set size: small “core sizes” vs big assortments

Most people end up in one of these two patterns:

1. Core sizes set
   Best if you drill the same few diameters constantly (pilots, jigs, shelf work). Less clutter, faster selection.
2. Assortment set
   Best if you do varied DIY and want “the right size” available without buying singles.

If you’re unsure, list the holes you drill most (pilot holes, shelf pins, dowels, hardware) and pick the set that covers those first.

Clean holes in plywood: backers, feed rate, and breakout

Brad point bits help, but plywood still needs the right setup:

• Backer board: clamp a scrap tight behind the work to prevent blowout.
• Start slow: let the spurs score the rim before you feed.
• Don’t punch through: ease up as you break through to keep the exit clean.

If you’re building your “bit basics” knowledge from scratch, this overview helps you pick the right bit type every time: drill bit types explained

Brad point buying guide: quick compatibility checks

Before you buy a set, check these so it fits how you actually drill:

• Chuck size: make sure your drill can hold the largest shanks in the set (especially if you’re using a compact driver).
• Common hole sizes: match the set to your real tasks (shelf pins, dowels, pilots, hardware).
• Drill guide use: if you drill with a guide, brad points are a strong match because they start clean and track well.
• Sharpening plan: if you drill a lot, decide whether you’ll replace singles or sharpen as needed.

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Troubleshooting table: problem → cause → fix

Problem you see	Likely cause	Fix that works in a real shop
Bit walks off your mark at the start	Starting too fast; no center mark; dull point	Make an awl mark, start slow for the first 1/8" (3 mm), and use a sharper brad point
Fuzzy or splintered rim around the entry	Dull spurs; wrong bit type for wood	Switch to a sharper brad point bit; score a knife line for delicate veneer
Blowout on the exit side	No backer board; punching through at full feed	Clamp a backer tight and ease up as you break through
Hole looks oversized or sloppy	Wobble from a loose chuck; forcing the bit; wrong size choice	Tighten the chuck properly, let the bit cut, and verify you’re using the correct diameter
Burning in hardwood	Too slow RPM with heavy pressure; chips not clearing	Increase speed moderately, reduce pressure, and back out to clear chips
Plywood veneer chips around the hole	Unsupported fibers; dull spurs	Use painter’s tape + backer board; start slow to score the rim
Small bits snapping	Side-loading; work shifting	Clamp the work, drill straight, and avoid “steering” the drill mid-hole
Dowel holes not lining up	Inconsistent reference face; layout drift	Register from one face, use a stop, and transfer locations with dowel centers

For a deeper bit-selection walkthrough: drill bit types explained

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Common mistakes and quick wins (shop-pro tips)

Quick wins that instantly improve brad point holes

• Start slow until the point and spurs seat.
• Use a backer for any through-hole you care about.
• Clear chips on deeper holes (especially in hardwood and MDF).
• Clamp the work so you’re not fighting movement while trying to stay on your mark.

Common mistakes

• Using brad point bits like they’re “self-centering” without a clear mark.
• Forcing the drill. Clean holes come from sharp bits and steady feed, not muscle.
• Skipping the backer board, then blaming the bit for exit blowout.

If you’re still unsure which bit style fits your job, the comparison guide clears it up fast: brad point vs twist bits

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FAQs

1) What’s the best brad point drill bit set for woodworking?

If you care most about clean holes and accurate starts in wood, choose a woodworking-focused brad point set with sharp rim cutters (spurs) and the sizes you actually drill most.

2) Are brad point bits better than twist bits?

In wood, brad point bits usually start more accurately and cut a cleaner rim than twist bits. However, twist bits can still work for rough drilling and are more general-purpose across materials. Full breakdown: brad point vs twist bits

3) Do I need a huge brad point assortment?

Not always. Many shops use a handful of sizes constantly, so a compact “core sizes” set can get used more. But if you do varied DIY, an assortment is convenient.

4) What’s the best way to prevent tear-out in plywood?

Use a sharp brad point bit, start slow to score the rim, and clamp a backer board tight behind the work. Then ease up as you break through.

5) Can brad point bits drill MDF?

Yes. MDF makes fine dust and packs chips, so clear chips often and avoid overheating. A backer board also helps keep the exit cleaner on through-holes.

6) Can I use brad point bits in a drill guide?

Yes—brad point bits are a great match for drill guides because they start cleanly and track well in wood. For best results, clamp the work and stabilize the guide.

7) Why do my brad point holes still come out slightly off?

Most often, the drill wasn’t square, the work shifted, or you started too fast and the point didn’t seat. Clamp better, start slower, and use an awl mark on your layout point.

8) What sizes matter most in a wood drill bit set?

It depends on your work. Most DIY and woodworking drilling centers around pilot holes for screws, common hardware sizes, and a few jig/shelf-related diameters. Make a quick list of the holes you drill most and match the set to that list.

9) Where can I learn the different drill bit types?

Start here: drill bit types explained

Conclusion: which brad point set should you buy?

If you want the most reliable “shop standard” pick, go with the Fisch Wave Cutter set (Pick #1) for clean, accurate woodworking holes.
If you want broad coverage in one case for general DIY, the DEWALT DW1720 set (Pick #2) is the easy grab-and-go choice.
If you’re shopping budget-first but still want better starts than twist bits, the IRWIN set (Pick #3) is a practical entry point.
For a right-sized shop assortment that fits common jig/hardware work, the Porter-Cable set (Pick #4) is a solid middle ground.
And if you mostly drill a handful of common diameters, the compact Fisch set (Pick #5) keeps your most-used brad point bits close at hand.

For more drill-bit roundups and how-to guides, visit: Drill Bits hub